Few skincare ingredients have become as ubiquitous as niacinamide. From drugstore shelves to social feeds, niacinamide serums are everywhere, and their evangelists make a persuasive case for adding them to your skincare routine. Admittedly, I’ve never truly succumbed to the hype – with a history of skin troubles including acne and hyperpigmentation, I’ve developed a penchant for stronger stuff. Retinols, peels, acids and peroxides: there are few actives I haven’t tried to save my skin. But consulting the experts, I learn that by underestimating niacinamide, I may have overlooked the simplest saviour of them all.
Meet the experts:
- Dr Simon Ourian is a cosmetic dermatologist, CEO of renowned Beverley Hills clinic Epione and the founder of Simon Ourian MD Skincare.
- Kelly Saynor is a qualified aesthetic nurse and clinical director of Medica Forte.
“Niacinamide is a very beneficial skincare ingredient for those who want a calm, even-toned, hydrated and stronger skin barrier,” says Dr Ourian. If I could trust any expert on the formula for healthy skin, it’s him: he tends to the skin of stars such as Kim Kardashian in his leading LA practice. Citing several studies, he adds that it’s “scientifically proven to be effective for treating a number of skin conditions” – including acne, rosacea, enlarged pores and fine lines – and that it does so “without side effects.” In short, it’s a gentle but effective solution to some of the most stubborn skin concerns, which is reason enough to invest in a good niacinamide serum. Below, everything else you need to know.
SKIP TO: The best niacinamide serums | What is niacinamide? | What does niacinamide do for the skin? | Is 10% niacinamide too much?
What is niacinamide?
“Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3,” Saynor tells me, explaining that the vitamin is so valuable in skincare as it helps improve overall health and the appearance of skin texture. It is also a humectant (translation: it draws water into the skin) so supports hydration and a supple complexion.
What does niacinamide do for your skin?
When quizzed on the actual benefits of niacinamide, both experts share a veritable laundry list. Niacinamide soothes redness, reduces inflammation and controls excess oil. Great for acne sufferers, it regulates sebum production in the skin, thereby minimising enlarged pores – which Dr Ourian tells us results in smoother-looking skin. It’s equally effective for dark spots: Saynor says it inhibits the transfer of pigment to the epidermis which in turn reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation for a more even skin tone. According to Saynor, “it also helps your skin produce ceramides, which are essential for maintaining a healthy barrier that keeps moisture in and irritants out,” with Dr Ourian confirming that this offers enhanced protection against environmental damage. As such, it’s a choice ingredient for those with eczema. And because it strengthens the skin barrier (and promotes collagen production to boot) it can minimise fine lines, too. While niacinamide’s hydrating effects are instant, don’t expect results on pigmentation or wrinkles overnight. “Consistency is key,” says Saynor, who recommends regular use over 8-12 weeks before you can expect to see results.
Is 10 per cent niacinamide too much?
The ideal concentration of niacinamide in a serum depends on the skin concern you want to treat. “A five per cent concentration of niacinamide is more than adequate and has been shown to be effective in hydrating, improving fine lines and reducing hyperpigmentation over time.” Dr Ourian says. Elaborating, Kelly tells me fine per cent is great for beginners or those with sensitive skin. For faster results, stepping up to 10 per cent can be beneficial, especially if you are targeting particularly large pores and/or extensive hyperpigmentation. But Dr Ourian cautions against using percentages higher than 12 per cent without an expert recommendation. “While they are safe and fine to go up to, there is the potential for irritation. As with everything, test niacinamide serum on a small area to assess your tolerance levels and gradually increase usage when your skin adjusts,” he advises.
Equipped with the facts, I realised I’d be foolish to not give niacinamide serums a try. Scroll on for the picks that come expert (and reformed-sceptic) approved.
Best niacinamide serums at a glance:
- Best niacinamide serum for beginners: Beauty of Joseon Propolis + Niacinamide Serum, £10.20
- Best high-strength niacinamide serum: Facetheory Porebright Serum N20 Pro, £35
- Best Korean niacinamide serum: Anua Niacinamide + Tranexamic Acid Serum, £20
- Best niacinamide serum sheet mask: MZ Skin Vitamin-Infused Meso Masks, £100
- Best serum for controlling shine: Kiehl’s Ultra Pure 5% Niacinamide Serum, £30
- Best niacinamide serum for hyperpigmentation: Topicals Faded Brightening & Clearing Serum, £39.99
Anua Niacinamide + Tranexamic Acid Serum
Anua Niacinamide + Tranexamic Acid Serum
- Niacinamide strength: 10 per cent
- Key ingredients: tranexamic acid, alpha arbutin
